1. Left & right channel check
Sit facing your speakers so you can tell left from right, then play each side on its own. If a tone comes out of the speaker you didn't click, something's wired backwards, or your balance setting is off.
Did that play from your left speaker?
2. Stereo movement test
This plays one steady tone that glides from your left speaker over to your right across about five seconds. It should travel smoothly the whole way — not jump, cut out, or stay stuck in the middle.
3. Frequency range test
Each button plays a short tone at a different pitch, from a low sub-bass rumble to a high treble whine. If one seems silent or buzzes, it could be a small driver's natural limit, a loose panel rattling, or a pitch your ears don't pick up anymore — more on that in the FAQs below.
Left/right channel check
Confirms each speaker is wired to the correct side before a call, movie, or listening session.
Stereo movement test
A tone that glides across the stereo field so you can hear true separation, not just two speakers playing the same thing.
Frequency range test
Six tones from sub-bass to ultra-high treble to catch weak drivers, rattling panels, and blind spots in your own hearing.
Fully private
No microphone, no permissions, nothing recorded — it's just sound being generated and played back locally.
How to use the speaker test
Pick your output
If your browser shows an output device dropdown, choose the speakers you actually want to test — otherwise it uses your system default.
Set a safe volume
Start with the slider low, especially before the frequency test, then raise it once you've heard the first tone and know what to expect.
Run each test in order
Left/right first, then the pan sweep, then the frequency buttons — each one checks something different, so it's worth doing all three.
Compare what you expected
If a side is wrong, a tone stays silent, or you hear buzzing instead of a clean tone, check the FAQs below before assuming the worst.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to install anything to run this test?
No. It uses the Web Audio API that's already built into your browser, so there's nothing to download and nothing to approve — just click a button and listen.
Why does the test start with a volume slider instead of just playing sound?
Speakers can sound a lot louder than headphones at the same setting, and the frequency test in particular can catch you off guard. We default to a lower level and let you raise it once you know what's coming — start low if you're not sure how loud your speakers actually are.
My laptop only has one speaker, or sound only comes from one side — is that normal?
Some laptops route both channels to a single downward-firing speaker, so you might genuinely hear both left and right from the same spot — that's a hardware limitation, not a broken test. If you have two separate visible speaker grilles and only one is producing sound, that points to a driver or wiring problem instead.
I hear rattling or buzzing at higher volume — what does that mean?
That's usually the speaker cone or an ill-fitting case panel vibrating against something, most common with the sub-bass and bass tones. It doesn't always mean the speaker is damaged, but it's worth turning the volume down for that speaker and, on external speakers, checking the enclosure is sitting flat and nothing loose is touching it.
Can this test Bluetooth or USB speakers?
Yes. The test plays through whatever output device your system is currently using, so built-in laptop speakers, USB speakers, and Bluetooth speakers all work the same way. If your browser supports it, you can also pick the exact output device from the dropdown above the test.
Is the speaker test free, and is there a catch?
It's free, with no sign-up and no limit on how many times you run it. There's no premium version hiding better tests behind a paywall — every test on this page is the full version. The site pays for itself through ads rather than subscriptions, so there's no real reason to charge for something this small.